Building instructions for the Speed  

These are the building instructions for the Speed. It is recommended to have some experiences with making (foil type) kites. If you decide to start building a Speed, it is important to follow the steps as described in these instructions.

Good luck!

The complete building instructions can be download here as a "PDF file""

 

"Steps":

"The File"
"The Templates"
"Cutting material"
"Tape the first few parts"
"Tape the rest of the parts"
"Making the air inlets"
"Attaching the air inlets"
"Crossventing the profiles"
"Reinforcements"
"Attachinments"
"Attaching the profiles"
"Closing the TE"
"Construction of the tips with rods"
"The bar"

"The File":

For printing the templates, use the latest version of Foilmaker: 1.6 Beta 2. If you don't have this version, download it here. You can also find it on the foilmaker site  http://www.foilmaker.co.uk  The most important thing is that when you open the foilmaker file, you'll need to check that the printer settings are good, and then start printing. The best settings for A4 format is in this case "portrait". Select the window with one of the profile's and press Print.  90 sheets later you have the templates on paper.  Don't change anything in the file, everything you change, changes the flying characteristics of the kite.

Shopping list for the Speed you find here:

What you need for the Speed 2.2

The File ;-)

Material list speed 2.2
chikara 7,5m^2 (5m)
double sided tape 1 rol (=50m)
Webbing 5m
dyneema 170 kg 5m
Dacron 5 cm  3m
kevlar/mylar 0,25m^2
gauze 1m
velcro 20cm

 CFK Rod                     2 * 30cm 8mm 

For the Speed 1.4 and the Speed 3.3 you need other file's

These are here available for the 1.4  here and for the 3.3 here.

The Speed 1.4 have got a projected area of  0,9 m^2 and is best flown on 2 lines.
But don't think its a easy one. He produces a lot of power when he is on Speed.

The best way to fly the Speed 2.2 is on 4 line handles, but is also flyable on a bar.
Projected area of this one is 1,4 m^2

The Speed 3.3 is a little monster for buggying with his projected area of 2,2 m^2 he surprised  lots of foil flyers. This one must be flown on bar because the pressure on the breakline's will be to high when you fly him on handles.

 

 

 

"Back to navigator"

"the Template":

The templates.After printing the templates, you first have to glue all of the parts together. After glueing, start cutting the templates. Work accurate! The templates of the upper and lower skins have a seam of 3mm, the seam should stay on the templates. The profiles should be cutted out without the seam! 
The skin templates need the seam because in a later stage youíll need to glue these together with double sided tape of 6mm wide. The profiles need to be drawn on the material without the seam, but need to be cutted out with a 1cm wide seam. 

 

"Back to Navigator"

"Cutting material"

We can start cutting out the templates from the material. Use a good type of material like Chikara, and defenitely notinhg that stretches or absorbes water. When drawing the emplates of the upper and lower skin on the material, add an extra 5cm at the TE. Watch for the weaving pattern of the material, it should always be lengthwiseof the template and defenitely not in an angle. Chikara (fi) stretches more onder an angle and this will introduce errors.

The profiles need to be cut out with a 1 cm wide seam (this is not on the templates!). Important: draw a marker on the profiles were the vent starts (nearest to the nose), youíll need this marker when you have to sew everything together. Also make crossvents in the profiles You can use the crossvents foilmaker draws, but you can also make more smaller crossvents (instead of a few large ones) to prevent the upper deck from distorting.

Now we have all the ingedients for making a SpeedÖ.

"Back to navigator"

"Taping the first parts.":

First we start with taping all of de individual upper and lower decks together with 6mm wide double sided tape.
This is how it works. Put down the lower deck piece in front of you with the outside up and stick the tape at the LE, this is were the upper and lower deck stick together. 
Stick the upper deck to its lower deck on the already present tape on the upper deck. Do this for every cel until there are sticked together at the LE!
"Back to navigator"

"Tape the rest of the parts":

After all the LEís are glued together, you have long cells parts which will become cells. Next we glue the cells together and form the upper and lower deck. Glue a piece of tape on every left side of a cell. Do this for every cell exactly the same!!

After this we can stick the cells together. So stick the left side of a cell on the right side of its neigbourgh. 

When the last cell is done, you have the decks finished. Again work accurate!
Now you can sewn 1 time over the LE to sewn the upper- and lower-skin  to getter.

 

"Back to navigator"

"Making the air inlet":

Making the air inlet.Because itís important that the kite stays airtight, we use air inlets valves. The air can get in, but will not go out. We make the inlets like this: for 1 valve, cut out 2 pieces ĎAí from chikara (or similar), cut out part ĎBí from thicker material (mylar, kevlar, dacron) Part ĎCí can be cut out of guaze. For the right template, click here.

On one piece ĎAí glue on the lng sides tape. Stick the other part ĎAí on top of it. Sew (through the tape) the long sides together. Now sew in the middle of the rear end (marker line) the 2 parts together. You donít need to tape this, it will only keep the parts together.

Put tape on part B on both sides, on 1 side the gauze is glued, the other side the opening of A will be glued around the opening. When finished, you can see that air can get in from 1 end, but cannot get out the same way.

Next stick some tape on the gauze around the opening. This is needed because we now need to glue the inlet at the inside of the deck. Youíll need at least 3 inlets, spread them over the cells equally.  

"Back to navigator"

"Attaching the air inlets":

Glue the inlet at about 2% of the profile length beneath the LE, because the pressure point is at this place. Everyting is glued together now, but not yet sewn. So sew around the opening through the tape.

When youíre done check the outside of the kite and youíll see the inlets. The material inside the opening needs to be cut out. When done, youíll see the gauze.  

"Back to navigator"

"Crossventing the profile":

Because only a few cells have inlets, the kite needs a good internal air circulation. This can be done by crossventing the kite. We use a soldering iron to make a few smaller inlets on the profiles. Take a look at the picture how these are spread up the profile.

 

"Back to navigator"

"Reinforcements":

Due to the enormous power of the Speed (or any sled foil) it is important to reinforce the Speed in the first cell at the bridle attachememt points. The material best used here is kevlar or mylar, because of its strength and it has no stretch at all. Check out the pictures of how the reinforcements look. You can change this, but remember itís better to make them big rather than small.
"Back to navigator"

"Attachinments":

To control the Speed, youíll need bridle attachement points. We use webbing of about 1 cm wide, also used for bridle attachement on traction foils. Before sewing it on the speed, we sew dyneema line on it of about 170kg. The webbing tnets to stretch and with the dyneema on it, it doesnít any more.

Next sew the webbing on the lower skin in a straight line from tip to tip. Donít forget to use tape. Use loops at the end for the attachement points of about 7.5 cm.

The bridle attachement points of the steering/brake lines are sewn slightly different, look at the picture.

  "Back to navigator"

"Attaching profiles":

Next we can sew the profiles to the lower deck. Start sewing at the point were the upper and lower deck meet at the nose. On the profile there should be a marker of this exact point. Put the marker on the lower-upperdeck point and start sewing in the middel of the seam of the cell 1 and cell 2 connection, right in the middle of the tape. You donít have to use tape here, because it is already there.

Do this for all the profiles.

 

When all the profiles are attached to the lower deck, sew the profiles to the upper deck. Here is were it starts to get tricky and some experience in foil sewing icomes in handy hereÖ. Again start at the nose.

"Back to navigator"

"Closing the TE":

Before we can close the TE, we need to sew an air-outlet in the TE of the middel cell. The outlet is folded inside the speed when itís flying. When done flying, all you need to do is to get the outlet open en the air can be pressed out. The air-outlet is made out of 2 pieces of chikara, at 1 (short) end velcro is sewn in to close the outlet, the other end is open. Sew the velcro side into the TE and the Speed will stay inflated. Again, use tape.

Now we can close the TE all the way. Use tape from 1 tip to the air outlet at the end of the profiles. Stick upper and lower deck to each other and cut of the TE at about 1.5 cm behind the tape. Make a double seam of 7mm on top of the tape and sew it all together.Donít sew through the air-outlet!

Here you can see how the air-outlet is beeiing pulled out.

"BAck to navigator"

"Constructing the tips with rods":

In the tips are carbon rods to keep it straight. Use 8mm carbon. The sleeve is beeiing made from 5cm wide dacron (or similar) with about the length if the tip. First, stick the tips (upper and lower deck) to each other using tape. Also put tape on the both outsides of the tip. Fold the dacron to make a sleeve. At the point were the bridle attachement point is, make a small hole in the sleeve en put the bridle attachement point through. Close the sleeve at 1 end and at the other make a velcro strip to close the sleeve. Stick the sleeve to the upper/lower deck and sew it. Your sewing machine might have a problem with 4 layers of dacron, 2 layers of mylar, 2 layers of chikara and 3 layers of tape ;-)

The sleeve can be closed at 1 end and the rod can be made to fit the sleeve. Try getting the rod through the loop in the sleeve.

Itís hard to beleeve, but after finishing the two tips, de Speed/ sledfoil is almost finished!;-)

"Back to navigator"

"The bar"

In the left part of the picture, a small drawing of the steering bar and lines can be seen. In the right part the lines are drawn and how they connect to the kite. The main lines go to the centre attachement point of the bar. The steering lines go to either sides of the bar and at the other end to the TE of the kite.